During the Republic of China era (1912-1949), women’s fashion underwent a significant transformation, reflecting the changing social and cultural landscape of the time. The influence of Western ideas and fashion trends, particularly in metropolitan cities like Shanghai, led to a surge in innovative and diverse clothing styles for women. The qipao, also known as cheongsam, emerged as one of the most iconic and widely adopted garments during this period, becoming a symbol of Chinese women’s elegance and sophistication.
The origins of the qipao can be traced back to the traditional clothing of the Manchu people, who ruled China during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912). The qipao’s design evolved over time, and in the early years of the Republic of China, it was recognized as one of the national formal dresses by the government in 1929. This official recognition further popularized the qipao among women across the country.
The qipao’s popularity reached its zenith in the 1930s, a golden age for the garment’s development and refinement. Inspired by the advantages of Western short dresses, the qipao underwent modifications, such as a reduced collar size and a slightly shortened length, resulting in a more form-fitting and flattering silhouette that accentuated the female figure. The qipao’s ability to seamlessly blend traditional Chinese elements with modern Western influences made it an irresistible choice for women seeking to express their individuality and style.
In addition to the qipao, the Republic of China era also witnessed a growing fascination with Western-style clothing. Women increasingly embraced Western-inspired garments such as dresses, coats, and formal gowns, incorporating elements like lapels, off-shoulder designs, high heels, stockings, and permed hair into their fashion choices.
These trends were particularly popular among movie stars and socialites of the 1940s, who were often at the forefront of adopting foreign cultural influences and pushing the boundaries of traditional dress codes. Renowned female intellectuals and writers of the time, such as Eileen Chang and Lin Huiyin, were also known for their affinity for Western-style clothing.
Another notable fashion trend during the Republic of China era was the “student uniform,” which typically consisted of a blue top and black trousers or skirt. The uniform’s design often featured a belted waist and various collar styles, such as square, round, or sailor collars, adding a touch of variety to the overall look. The accompanying skirts also came in different styles, showcasing the creativity and diversity within the framework of the student uniform.
In contrast to the one-piece structure of the qipao, the “ao qun” (jacket and skirt) style offered a two-piece alternative. Although this style predated the Republic of China era, it underwent significant improvements during this period. Influenced by Japanese women’s clothing, the ao qun featured a narrow, elongated high-collar jacket paired with a simple, unadorned black skirt. This understated and elegant combination became known as the “civilized new attire,” representing a departure from the more ornate and traditional styles of the past.
The fashion trends of the Republic of China era not only reflected the changing tastes and preferences of women but also symbolized the broader social and cultural shifts taking place in the country. As China navigated the complex landscape of modernization and Westernization, women’s fashion became a visible manifestation of these transformations. The incorporation of Western elements into traditional Chinese clothing styles represented a desire to embrace progress and change while still maintaining a connection to cultural heritage and identity.
The qipao, in particular, emerged as a powerful symbol of this cultural fusion. Its ability to combine the grace and elegance of traditional Chinese aesthetics with the practicality and simplicity of modern Western design made it a timeless and versatile garment. The qipao’s evolution throughout the Republic of China era showcased the ingenuity and adaptability of Chinese fashion, as designers and wearers alike sought to create a style that was both distinctly Chinese and internationally appealing.
The influence of the Republic of China era on women’s fashion extends far beyond the boundaries of time and place. The styles and trends that emerged during this period have left an indelible mark on Chinese fashion history and continue to inspire and inform contemporary designers and fashion enthusiasts around the world. The qipao, for example, has experienced a resurgence in popularity in recent years, with many modern iterations paying homage to its rich cultural heritage while incorporating fresh, innovative elements to appeal to a new generation of wearers.
Moreover, the fashion of the Republic of China era serves as a reminder of the important role that clothing can play in shaping and expressing individual and collective identities. The choices made by women during this period, whether it was to embrace the qipao, experiment with Western-style garments, or adopt the understated elegance of the ao qun, reflected their desire to assert their independence, challenge traditional gender roles, and participate in the broader cultural conversations of their time.
As we look back on the fashion of the Republic of China era, we are reminded of the power of clothing to serve as a visual language, communicating ideas, values, and aspirations across time and space. The women who wore these garments were not merely passive consumers of fashion trends but active agents in shaping the cultural landscape of their era. Their choices and innovations continue to inspire and inform our understanding of the complex relationship between fashion, identity, and social change.
In conclusion, the fashion of the Republic of China era represents a fascinating chapter in Chinese history, one that speaks to the resilience, creativity, and adaptability of Chinese women in the face of tremendous social and cultural upheaval. By embracing both tradition and modernity, these women created a fashion legacy that continues to resonate with us today, reminding us of the enduring power of clothing to shape our sense of self and our place in the world. As we continue to explore and celebrate the rich history of Chinese fashion, we honor the women of the Republic of China era and the indelible mark they left on the world of style and beyond.